Burning Man
Black Rock City, Nevada, USA

My companions found a good spot to camp and I was soon on my way to meet my Burner family – who over the course of the week I came to love. They were a truly amazing bunch of people from all over the world – both gay and straight, racially diverse, with absolutely no preconceptions or hang-ups. We cooked, we partied, we forgot about health-and-safety and truly became a unit, sharing all we had between ourselves, to make our time as enjoyable as possible. After all, this is the luxury you’ll find at Burning Man – because living without your creature comforts can be quite challenging. The weather is hostile, searing hot in the day and freezing at night, with frequent dust storms blowing in to weaken your resolve. But thanks to the camaraderie, expert hands and much love from everybody from the BAAAHS team, I felt safe, comfortable and by the end didn’t want to leave.  What I experienced was that in Black Rock City (or at least within my camp) the outside world of ‘every-man-for-himself’ disappeared. It was like finding your tribe after a lifelong search. It was a place where everybody just fell into a role without being told to and the fuel that lit the fires is pure gallons of enthusiasm. And of course, arguably, the best parties in the city. 




Our parties were dedicated to our high-priestess and magic sheep, Pearl and held in our barn every single day of the week, sometimes twice or three times a day. A self-billed ‘space sheep’, you could climb the stairs and walk through her asshole, where you’d see a magical world, meet lovely people and dance all day to the most up-for-it DJs, spinning out different styles, sounds and vibes from all over the world, coming together to curate an emotional soundtrack for this particular edition of Burning Man

BAAAHS is just one of the many mutant vehicles resident at Black Rock City – I discovered an array of them, from the tiny to the gigantic, while cycling around the playa. Each one of them has a superpower and I found each one’s magic as I approached them. They come in all shapes and forms, from a flaming octopus to a moving forest, from aliens to magic carpets. They’re all over and I just followed my gut, going for rides with them or following them around in entourage. A couple of days in, I threw away my map – I was home, familiar and ready to create my own journey.

“Try to see it all and you’ll miss the point. Sit back and enjoy the view and all you’ll need to see will reveal itself to you.”

The layout of Burning Man is relatively simple once you get used to it – the Man is in the middle of the ‘playa’, with art all around him that spreads further into the ‘deep playa’. If you take the Man as a point of reference, the streets run clockwise like the hands of a clock and its circular streets run outwards from the centre alphabetically – A, B, C, and so on. Always remember where your camp is; mine, for example, was located at 7D, and you’ll always find your way back eventually, however disheveled, by the end of the night, or dawn, or lunchtime the next day.

This year, the theme for the artwork was ‘Carnival of Mirrors’ so there were a lot of interactive pieces that reminded me of the twisted funfair that used to come to town when I was a kid. But describing them in this way does them no justice, as every piece of art was simply spectacular. I loved the ‘Family Jewels’, ‘The Woman’ and also the ‘Flower of Life’ sphere that lit up at night. They all touched me in some way or another and I wanted to see it all, but I soon realised that this was an impossibility as there is just so much to see. Try to see it all and you’ll miss the point. Sit back and enjoy the view and all you need to see will reveal itself to you. Everyone’s experience of Burning Man should be different to everyone else’s – the arty folk will enjoy its physicality, the spiritual will love the shamanic workshops, the hedonist the sex, nudity, parties and radical self-expressions of experiences that are dedicated to fulfilling fantasies. But the take-away at the end of it all is very individual to each visitor and temporary resident of Black Rock City, it’s much more about what you feel, instead of what you see. Well, at least it was for me. 

Not that sexuality really matters here, but if you’re looking for a truly gay experience, Black Rock City has its own gay scene and village, that put those in major world capital cities to shame. At Donniker Street this year (where the BAAAHS called home), I found a variety of homo-happenings – from ‘Comfort and Joy’ with its infamous orgy tent, ‘Glam Cocks’ with celebrity West Hollywood gays and performers, ‘Celestial Bodies’ for the best massage in the desert bar none. The list goes on – ‘Homojitoville’, ‘Dickstracted’, ‘All Meat No Tuck’ and ‘The Whitney Houston Party’ (and its signature drink, the ‘Bobby Punch’). For those like me who are into the music, you find great beats (and thankfully – no ear-bleeding Electronic Dance Music which seems to be the flavour of the year in America) across the week. Some of my favourites of the week included ‘Pink Mammoth’, sunset at ‘Distrikt’, ‘Mayan Warrior’ and ‘Robot Heart’. And, I might be biased, but secret sunrise with BAAAHS is spectacular.

For foodies, there’s also a lot going on, which you don’t really expect from a pop-up in the middle of the dust; from ice-cream in the desert to freshly baked bread every day from a makeshift bakery, it’s amazing what the residents of Black Rock City can do, given the circumstances. As no money changes hands, the spirit of giving and trading is rife. You put in as much as you get out, and that applies to everything – from food to interactions, to everything. People get really creative – for us, it was how we could enhance the experience of those coming to BAAAHS – and that can be anything from a simple hug on the dancefloor, to handmade jewellery for every visitor, to a Colorado cookie. 

One thing, one place stood out for me during my visit and I wanted to save the best til last. ‘The Temple’, a spiritual place that honours no god, but that served as a place for everybody and anybody to have a little time out for calm, reflection and prayer. For me, it was a fantastic experience, but what got me about the place was not about self-reflection. There were so many people who visited the Temple that left messages or pictures of their loved ones in celebration of them. Others made little shrines of remembrance to people they had lost. It made me realise how lucky I was to be alive and to be able to experience what I do, to meet the people I meet – resulting in me coming here to this magical place. Emotions run high at the temple so be aware you may have a little cry, I certainly did. This beautiful space burns in total silence on the last day which is simply spellbinding.

While Burning Man changes each year and you’re supposed to take your own experience away from it, there are some evident constants – all of which are encapsulated in its spirit. It is the biggest pagan ceremony on earth with no real rules about what you believe, in a temporary city that doesn’t really exist. It’s a place where the struggles of the outside world are left behind, one that is deeply spiritual and encourages reflection. You are taught; no you experience love, peace and fun – and you give it in return. No-one is better than anyone else and no-one gets VIP treatment or velvet ropes. There’s no money, no timekeeping, no judgement. You’re not required to conform and all are welcome, whatever their beliefs. It’s wholly diverse and its wealth stems from creativity, not commerciality. Socially, there is no religion, theft, greed, violence or anger. There isn’t even any litter, despite there being no provision to keep it clean. Everyone is respectful of you and the place you’re in at that very time, where you come from and what you know. This is a place where a population of 70,000 coexists in a single space helping each other, for the sake of enjoyment. For me, it has been the best travel destination I have ever had the chance to experience. I can’t believe it only exists for one week of the year, it’s a city I would love to become a permanent resident of.  

Burning Man is a place to find out who you are and take it a step further. Held at Black Rock City at the end of August, it is a city in the desert, a culture of possibility where you’ll meet a network of dreamers and doers.

Photography by Borja Pena and Manny Becerra via Unsplash

Get out there

Do…

… come prepared. Do your research; find out all you can from Burners. The last thing you want to be is a ‘Sparkle Pony’ – one who turns up with nothing and relies on the generousity of others attending.

… stay healthy. Black Rock City is a physically treacherous place. Extremes of heat, cold, wind and dust can cause havoc to your well-being. Goggles and face-masks are recommended. Stay hydrated and get as much sleep as possible.

… leave your normal life behind and don’t expect a wi-fi signal.

Don’t…

… get carried away in the first few days. Take your time and enjoy the ride, slowly.

… get F.O.M.O. (fear of missing out). You will not be able to see everything and in your quest to do so, you’ll miss the really important things. Expectation can be your biggest enemy.

… forget your worth at Burning Man is what you can give to others – your art, your camp, your gifts, your spirit. The economy here is to appreciate and be appreciated.