Relais & Châteaux is far more than a collection of luxury retreats. It is a movement, a philosophy and a celebration of place through flavour. For over seventy years since its founding in 1954, the brand has curated epic luxury stays and stories, woven from each destination’s soul and shaped by the hands of artisans in hospitality, experience and gastronomy. To celebrate those stories, we speak to seven visionary chefs – one for each decade of Relais & Châteaux’s milestone anniversary – who redefine fine dining by honouring the land, its culture, diversity and sustainable practices.
Seventy years is a remarkable milestone – one that gleams with vision, passion and the relentless pursuit of excellence, not to mention endurance. An icon in luxury travel, Relais & Châteaux has irrefutably evolved with time yet remained timeless – adapting, innovating, and inspiring across generations. It continues to deepen its commitment to the art of travel and what shapes it in contemporary terms, particularly in inclusion, as well as community-driven and environmentally based custodianship. But we feel it is in its approach to culinary excellence, with each dish served at its destinations, which authentically tells the story of the land, its people and its crafting of unforgettable experiences.
To celebrate this platinum anniversary, we honour some of the people who have shaped its extraordinary journey… and who are shaping its future. The Experientialist® speaks to seven Relais & Châteaux chefs – and chef/owners – who are the tastemakers of tomorrow, weaving sustainability, heritage and innovation into their cuisine, ensuring that no two Relais & Châteaux experiences are the same. They share their vision for now and the future with us and explain how they are each championing individuality and rejecting the predictable in favour of the personal, the crafted and the truly extraordinary.
Mauro Colagreco, Chef Owner
Mirazur, Menton, France
Gastronomy is a powerful vector for change and, if we change the way we produce our food, we can change our diet, which changes our society and therefore our values. It is in this spirit that I opened my restaurant Mirazur in Menton, in 2006. For almost twenty years, I have been working on the implementation of a circular gastronomy that no longer produces at the expense of the earth, but instead promotes the regeneration of ecosystems. I think that by adopting a more circular gastronomy, respectful of nature’s cycles, it is possible to feed a growing population without eating the planet anymore.
Beyond “living without destroying”, it’s now a question of “living to protect”. Protecting our environment must be our primary concern. We, chefs, play a role that goes far beyond our kitchens. We are influencers with our suppliers and guests; we have the privilege and responsibility of shaping tomorrow’s culinary trends; we are educators and above all we are guardians of biodiversity.
Michael Caines, Chef Owner
Lympstone Manor, Devon, UK
The values of Relais & Châteaux lie in sustainability, cultural diversity and culinary excellence. At Lympstone Manor, we celebrate a sense of place by showcasing local ingredients, supporting local farmers and rare breeds and reducing food miles, to create menus that reflect our region’s unique story. By integrating inclusive practices and thoughtful environmental policies, we strive to offer luxury experiences for our guests that are as sustainable as they are enriching – inviting guests to enjoy ‘guilt-free pleasure’ where every detail considers the planet and community.
Danni Barry, Executive Chef
Ballynahinch Castle, Co. Galway, Ireland
We are committed to showcasing the rich culinary heritage of Connemara and the West of Ireland at Ballynahinch Castle. Although our food history is steeped in tradition, it is important that we make necessary changes now to secure food for the future. We are privileged to be able to lean into our location and support local fishermen and organic farmers, cutting out food miles. We have our own kitchen garden which dictates the menu for 90% of the year. We try to preserve as much as possible also for the winter months. The role we play as chefs now in working sustainably will ensure that conscious gastronomy continues to evolve into the future.
Vicky Lau, Founder & Head Chef
Tate Dining Room & Bar, Hong Kong
As a chef in Hong Kong, my commitment to sustainability inspires our establishments to embrace culinary diversity and excellence through the innovative use of local ingredients. To further promote sustainability, I opened another restaurant, MORA, in 2021, where we focus on incorporating house-made soy products and locally sourced ingredients. At Tate Dining Room & Bar, we aim to create a dining experience that honours the environment and highlights the richness of our region. Additionally, my involvement on the board of directors for the charity organisation “Feeding Hong Kong” reinforces our vision for a future where each meal contributes to a more sustainable world. Together, we strive to make a positive impact through our culinary endeavours.
Jef Schuur, Head Chef at Bij Jef
Den Hoorn-Texel, Netherlands
Mother Nature is in charge: we work with what nature offers, so we’re thankful for all the wonderful products we get from the Waddenzee. It’s an amazing landscape with a diversity of habitats, which is why it’s on the UNESCO World Heritage list. We also enjoy a wide year-round range of fish and seafood from the North Sea, focusing on species that are lower on the food chain. By using fish that are abundant and shellfish that reproduce easily, we help ensure sustainability. Our menu at Bij Jef is seasonal: in the spring and summer, we get all the vegetables and herbs from our own garden and we use techniques such as canning and fermenting so we’re still using this harvest after September. From April to November, we get Texel lamb. It’s all the best the island has to offer!
Shinchiro Takagi, Chef Owner
Zeniya, Kanazawa, Japan
The joy of traveling lies in experiencing the local culture. While cherishing tradition, innovation that keeps people from getting bored is, I believe, necessary not only to preserve the cuisine but also to protect a part of the Earth. This is what we strive to do at Zeniya. I want to face my profession with pride, together with friends from all over the world.
Peter Tempelhoff, Culinary Director
Ellerman House, Cape Town, South Africa
Exploring the origins of humans and the food they ate thousands of years ago has unearthed a pantry of new ingredients that I’ve never worked with before. All sorts of leaves, underground organs, fruits and herbs have been coming through onto my menus, adding an array of exciting new flavours and interesting textures since. So inspired by these incredible ingredients that I’ve developed an indigenous edible garden for Ellerman House, for their constant supply, spanning over two hectares of prime farmland. Not only are we able to use these indigens as and when we need them, but we’re also returning the soil to its original state of flora balance plus we’re not pressurising the wild areas through excessive foraging for our restaurants.
A recipe for sustainability
We couldn’t help but be moved when we learned about the new partnership between UNESCO and Relais & Châteaux. Together, they’ve committed to preserving biodiversity through the very essence of hospitality and culinary traditions. With climate change and biosphere preservation presenting significant challenges, both institutions are calling for a shift in how we, as travellers, think about food, hospitality, community and the environment. With 580 properties across 65 countries, they are at a unique crossroads of culture, nature and tourism, perfectly placed to lead this charge and show us all how food systems can work for both people and the planet.
This initiative is being spearheaded by Mauro Colagreco, to whom we spoke to above. He’s been at the forefront of using gastronomy as a catalyst for change and through this collaboration, a series of pilot projects will soon be launched. These projects will focus on sustainable biodiversity and respecting local cultures, with the first ones set to launch later this year. Relais & Châteaux members will partner with UNESCO Sites and biosphere reserves to ensure that sustainability is at the heart of food and hospitality.
Photography courtesy of Relais & Châteaux
