There’s much to admire about the corner of town you’ll find The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul in, from the pretty Maçka Democracy Park, one of the city’s few notable green lungs, to the bombastically decorated Dolmabahçe Palace. Perhaps in a nod to the latter’s Ottoman opulence, this upscale urban hideaway offers a wealth of dining options alongside famously regal service.
Opened in 2001, The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul might at first strike guests with a slightly unusual location. The hotel sits neither in the immediate vicinity of glittering tourist hotspot Sultanahmet, where real estate is limited, nor does it sprawl along the Bosphorus further up north, like several other luxury hotels that can feel a little disconnected from the action. Instead, the Ritz-Carlton occupies 14 floors of the Süzer Plaza tower, conveniently placing it between the palaces lining the strait in the Beşiktaş district, and the mosques and markets of Beyoğlu and Fatih. It might not be ‘around the corner’ from anywhere notable, bar the aforementioned Dolmabahçe Palace – but it’s within equally easy reach of all parts of town that visitors will want to explore in this extraordinarily vast metropolis.
The golden letters above the hotel’s entrance give a sense of big brand luxury, but to us, it was our welcome, exuberantly friendly in typical Ritz-Carlton fashion, that felt more luxurious still. There was a sense right from the start that our arrival had been anticipated by the team, whose members were consistently generous with the time and attention they afforded us: Would we like a tour of the facilities? Check. See the rooftop? Why, of course. Have the concierge desk make a reservation on our behalf? You bet.
Past chandeliers and blooming hydrangea bouquets, an outpost of prestigious, 1934-founded Turkish fashion house Vakko offers high-end retail, while across the lobby and up a split staircase, a few small boutiques sell everything from oriental lampshades to antique furnishings (price on request). This part of The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul feels a bit like a particularly quiet mini mall, and we preferred the gorgeous rooftop instead: Having benefitted from a recent refurbishment, the roof is seriously chic, with pastel pistachio sun loungers and private cabanas against white parasols, a light-flooded restaurant and bar, as well as an infinity pool that seems to flow right into the Bosphorus straight ahead. We hear the hotel regularly hosts open-air film screenings and DJ sets here, making the rooftop a great place to socialise with fellow guests and visitors.
Of its 239 guest accommodations, 28 are suites with signature themes and details. These include a Ritz-Carlton Suite on the hotel’s top floor and a unique Nobu Suite, designed by French architect Severine Tatangelo (known for her regular work with Nobu) and featuring Japan-inspired touches like an ofuro bathtub alongside an expansive dining and lounge area on its outdoor terrace overlooking the city. Put simply, this is one of the most distinctive and memorable accommodations in any Istanbul luxury hotel.
We stayed in an ever-so-slightly more modest 34 sqm (366 sqft) King Room with a partial view of the Bosphorus and more locally-inspired design details. From ceramic Iznic tiles meandering across our marble bathroom to backlit screens of cobalt blue prints above our headboard and teardrop-shaped pendant lights, the rooms, albeit not the freshest or most lavish in town, celebrate Türkiye’s artistic heritage without slipping into a clichéd vision thereof (as is often the case with international chains). Guests looking to write an email or two during their stay can look forward to solid workstations, excellent sound insulation and clever light options, while generous welcome amenities and full-size Diptyque toiletries will make anyone feel at home. Although longer stays warrant opting for a larger room category, entry-level accommodations are certainly comfortable and inviting.
The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul also prides itself on a varied gastronomic offering spanning the Bleu Lounge and Limoré, a tribute to Amalfi’s coastal cuisine, as well as the Anatolian-influenced Atölye, with its 150-bottle-strong wine cellar, plus the city’s first and only Nobu. We were drawn to the latter on our first night, and appreciated finding a reasonably comprehensive plant-based section on its menu, tucking into cauliflower with jalapeño, crispy tofu and an indulgent mushroom toban yaki. The venue itself is as stylish as they come, with a rock garden, low lighting and contemporary artworks setting the tone, while the adjacent Tüpraş Stadium and the cityscape beyond make a table beside the venue’s enormous windows extra special. Stick around after dinner for Sakura G&Ts, DJ sets and requests to leave a TripAdvisor review (mind, we prefer leaving one on our own soil).
Atölye, too, is not without charms, and we were glad to find several appetisers and side dishes that suited our plant-based diet, though a little disappointed to see just one main course, a somewhat uninspired ‘Vegan Plate’. Its location at the very bottom of an otherwise extensive menu alone made it look like a workaround to accommodate vegans and vegetarians, and this was a shame: Anatolian cuisine has some delicious, naturally plant-based dishes, and the restaurant – albeit able to deliver on them – fails to tap into this culinary heritage, thinking instead that vegetables belong purely into the side dish category. The resulting lack of thoughtful and diet-inclusive menu options led to quite a bit of back-and-forth between us and the kitchen until we finally gave in and ordered a plate of quinoa with vegetables – meh.
It’s not, however, all bad. Conscious of our feeling underwhelmed, the team arranged a special, vegan breakfast for us, including Turkish bean dish ‘kuru fasulye’, vegetables traditionally cooked in olive oil (‘Zeytinyağlı’-style) and the creamiest muhammara, all of which complemented a dedicated plant-based buffet corner, where vegan cheeses and foul mesdames had our mouths watering. While veggie guests should be able to expect their dietary requirements to be met without hotels bending over backwards (which is potentially awkward for everyone involved), we can’t deny that the team at The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul worked hard to turn the situation around, and that’s no doubt down to the brand’s high service standards: formal, sure, but not rigid.
Last but certainly not least, there’s also the hotel’s generous wellness area, centred around a heated indoor pool beneath a painted sky and flanked by a large-scale painting by Turkish interdisciplinary artist Koray Tokdemir. While there are more luxurious spas in town, guests in search of a well-equipped gym, saunas and steam rooms, as well as an authentic hammam and a catalogue of divine-sounding treatments, will no doubt get their money’s worth here. On a sunny day, with most guests gravitating towards the glistening rooftop pool instead, we found the spa to be wonderfully serene. If there’s a better way to relax than soaking in a jacuzzi after a day of exploring this sprawling megacity, we’ve yet to find it.
Photography courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company
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While you’re OutThere
A stroll around the nearby Maçka Democracy Park and a visit to the extravagant Dolmabahçe Palace across the road obviously belong on any guest’s itinerary. But while the Zeyrek Çinili Hamam isn’t within walking distance (unless you’re feeling very ambitious), it really pays to visit. From the state-of-the-art, on-site museum to a dangerously well-curated boutique and, of course, the Turkish baths themselves, this place deserves a five-star rating throughout.
