A bedroom at the Fera Palace Hotel, Salvador, Brazil

Fera Palace Hotel
Salvador, Brazil


 


Arguably more than any other place to stay in town, the Fera Palace Hotel has shaped the very history of the city it’s in. This isn’t merely a chic address but a beacon of Bahian elegance past, present and future.

The construction of Bahia’s first luxury accommodation – the Palace Hotel – in 1934 heralded a golden era in Salvador’s history. With a distinctive triangular footprint (a direct reference to New York’s Flatiron Building) and Art Deco-inspired façade, the building became a landmark in the city’s lauded Historic Centre. Its cosmopolitan character resonated with international trends and the aspirations of both the Bahian elite and visiting VIPs. Notable guests included Carmen Miranda, Orson Welles and Pablo Neruda.

But, as Salvador’s cultural and economic dynamics shifted in the 1980s, the hotel sadly fell into decline, eventually closing its doors.  and like many of the Brazilian city’s incredible historic buildings, it spent decades in a state of abandonment. Then, in 2012, local entrepreneur Antonio Mazzafera acquired the deteriorating building and began an ambitious restoration. Led by Danish architect Adam Kurdahl, the project honoured the hotel’s historic Art Deco character, meticulously restoring many of its original features whilst incorporating modern infrastructure and amenities. In 2017, the hotel reopened under a new name – the Fera Palace Hotel – reclaiming its status as a beacon of elegance and a cultural landmark in the albeit slow revitalisation of the downtown area.

Today, the hotel perfectly marries vintage elegance with cool contemporary luxury. Entering the grand lobby, we were greeted by Nádia Taquary’s artwork hanging on twin pillars beside the reception desk, contemporising and decolonising the repurposed space which originally housed a luxury shopping arcade. The area still exudes style but now houses the hotel’s grand lobby. We loved the harmonious blend of aged, brushed steel fixtures, solid leather Chesterfield sofas, and mirrored drinks cabinets. The space is tied together with a cream and black mosaic tiled floor, which seductively curves as it meets the bar, beyond which attractive waiting staff waft around, catering for the whims of equally cool guests in the chic Omí restaurant. From here, we recommend either taking the art deco elevator or climbing the swooping stone staircase upon level to check out the ballroom. Originally a glamorous casino, the space is breathtaking, featuring tall mirrored columns which exude gilded glamour. It’s easy to imagine Carmen Miranda wandering through charming guests whilst Orson Wells looks on wryly, cracking witticisms around the roulette wheel.

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While you’re Out There
The Museu Nacional da Cultura Afro-Brasileira, also known as MUNCAB, is a vibrant, must-see museum that immerses visitors in Africa’s formative influence on Brazilian culture, celebrating the histories and creativity of Afro-Brazilian and diasporic voices. Regularly changing exhibitions spotlight works by many of the most important recent and contemporary black Brazilian artists.

The hotel now houses 81 rooms and suites. Our airy, fifth-floor 46 sqm/495 sqft Corner Suite featured broad windows on all three sides, providing a view of Castro Alves Square and a partial sea view. In the centre, beyond a dedicated sitting area, a king-sized bed invited us to a peaceful rest. It also featured a very generous bathroom, bathed in natural light with a freestanding bath and a separate large rain shower that added to the luxurious feeling. We particularly enjoyed the photography on the walls, of silhouetted figures leaping off the end of one of Salvador’s piers into the sea – a daily euphoric sight which speaks to this coastal city’s insurmountable energy.

The hotel’s rooftop features an infinity pool and the relaxed-by-day, lively-by-night Fera Lounge, which offers one of the city’s best views over the Baía Todos os Santos. It has become a magnet for both cocktail-drinking locals and visitors alike. While not part of the original structure, the rooftop space was designed in harmony with the building’s historic aesthetic, enhancing its appeal without compromising its architectural integrity.

The Fera Palace Hotel’s prime location places guests within walking distance of many of Salvador’s most significant cultural attractions, including the colourful Pelourinho and Santo Antonio districts, Baroque cathedrals, excellent museums, and the city’s vibrant Afro-Brazilian music and culinary scenes. But beyond its amenities, the hotel is a real treat for architecture lovers and history enthusiasts. From its preserved copper dome to its generous collection of local art and photography, the Fera Palace Hotel is more than just a very nice place to stay – it is a living museum of Salvador’s past and a bold statement of its urban renewal and bright future. By blending the glamour of the 1930s with an awareness of the demands of today’s international OutThere travellers, the Fera Palace Hotel has not only reclaimed its legacy but has also helped reestablish Rua Chile as a vibrant cultural artery in Salvador’s historic core.

www.ferahoteis.com

Photography by Martin Perry and courtesy of Fera Palace Hotel




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