Villa Medici Suite living room at Hassler Roma, Rome, Italy

Hassler Roma
Rome, Italy


 


Could there be a more sophisticated affair than imbibing a Bellini on the 7th Floor Terrace (the ‘world’s best’, according to Princess Diana) at the Hassler Roma, before you stroll down the Spanish Steps and onto the Via Margutta, famous from Audrey Hepburn’s 1953 classic, Roman Holiday? We think not. But far from content with resting on its laurels, Rome’s most legendary hotel has its eyes on a gilded future as it enters a new era.

Bill Gates, Jennifer Lopez, Mick Jagger, Nicole Kidman, King Gustaf of Sweden and the Beckhams. They all have a favourite suite at Hassler Roma. Audrey Hepburn was enamoured of the wood-panelled San Pietro Suite while Karl Lagerfeld, somewhat unsurprisingly, favoured the mostly monochromatic Presidential Suite Trinità dei Monti. It’d be no overstatement to say that the hotel, which first opened in 1893 and has served as the undisputed steward of Roman luxury hospitality since, has long become a benchmark and a talking point for the world’s visiting glitterati (and, in some cases, the human appendices riding their coattails in search of la dolce vita). Those who don’t have a favourite suite here might well expose themselves as illiterate in the high art of flamboyance, though, of course, it’s not the accommodations themselves that have the haut monde gravitate here when in town.

Perhaps that’s to do with the hotel’s ownership. These days under the sixth generation of the Swiss Bucher-Wirth hotel dynasty, Hassler Roma fell into the hands of twins Veruschka and Roberto Wirth Jr. after the 2022 passing of previous owner Roberto Wirth, whose portrait now greets guests from behind the check-in desk. The twins, too, come out to welcome VIP visitors, and we were flattered to apparently rank among them. That the hotel is very much a family affair is unsurprising given its interiors, courtesy in large parts to the twins’ mother (and, we wondered, perhaps part-time ‘momager’?) Astrid Schiller Wirth. But the concept of famiglia extends beyond genetic lineage here to include the staff, some of whom introduced themselves with big smiles and on a first-name basis, and shook our hands each time we happened upon them during our stay: guests, too, are part of the family here.

When we visited, the property, which is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World, was in the midst of a renovation of some of its best-known spaces, to be reborn throughout 2025 alongside a new visual identity. Yet its operations appeared unaffected by this, and there was an ever-present air of relaxed bustle in all its communal areas. The lobby and downstairs gallery feature displays that tout jewellery and fashions by nearby retailers to old-fashioned but somehow charming effect, while a recurring turtle motif manifests itself in a bedazzled mosaic red velvet chair that graces the Sala Vietri on the ground floor – perhaps a homage to idiosyncrasy on account of the owners. It’s an aesthetic that won’t exactly roll with design-savvy guests, but those who can get behind the property’s independent spirit might well find themselves calling such quirks fabulous, with a daaarling! at the end.

The views from many of the 66 rooms and 21 suites at Hassler Roma would be as deserving of said tip of the hat, with the Villa Medici, the Sallustiano Obelisk and the Spanish Steps just outside its front door (the latter having inspired the hotel’s official tagline, Stairway to Heaven). Unlike other accommodations, our 45 sqm/484 sqft Junior Suite had been furnished to reflect more modern tastes, with its black-and-white theme and comparatively stripped-back interiors offering a contrast to the Murano chandeliers, frescoes, trompe l’oeil paintings and mosaics some of the hotel’s suites are known for. Still, features like a small anteroom and a spacious walk-in wardrobe – both fitted with mirrored walls – as well as a living room area where a bottle of Franciacorta awaited us upon arrival made for luxurious perks and properties. A beige marble bathroom with twin vanities and a large tub felt rather dated to us, though the in-house Amorvero brand of toiletries and newer additions like a Dyson hairdryer evidenced Hassler Roma’s efforts to keep up with competition. Just some luxurious bath salts were missing to sweeten the deal.

At the time of writing, the hotel’s current spa is being transformed into a new corner suite with its very own terrace on the third floor. It seems only fitting given the space was once the private residence of a beloved family member, soon to serve as an accommodation once more – Limoges porcelains, 19th-century mirrors and all. For the ultimate Roman holiday, book the 7th-floor Penthouse Villa Medici Suite with its enormous 150 sqm/1,615 sqft terrace (where Hollywood’s A-list have their photo calls when in Rome) or the 2012-created, 8th-floor Hassler Penthouse, which features Italian Botticino marble floors, a grand piano, Hermès textiles, two terraces, Chroma therapy showers with panoramic views over the city, and private butler service across some 330 sqm/3,552 sqft of lavishly adorned space. You’ll also have access to a private elevator as well as turtle-themed chocolates at turndown… though everyone gets those.

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While you’re Out There
With the Villa Borghese practically doubling as the backyard of Hassler Roma, it would appear frivolous not to go for a lengthy walk around Rome’s most famous park. We loved our morning strolls here and were amazed by the lesser-known but gem-like Pietro Canonica Museum, which showcases the works of the eponymous 19th-century sculptor and composer. Make sure you don’t miss the pretty atelier on the ground floor.

Beyond nighttime treats, the hotel prides itself on a rather impressive gastronomic offering. There’s the Michelin-starred IMÀGO and the downstairs Palm Court in the garden, where we sat surrounded by statues and high walls overgrown with ivy, while a seashell-shaped bar channelling a Polly Pocket foldable house made for a dramatic centrepiece around which guests would gather for negronis each night of our stay. The outdoor space is currently being reimagined; as is the popular Salone Eva restaurant and the tiny, attached chocolate box that’s the Hassler Bar, both to bring a new generation of well-heeled travellers through the hotel’s golden revolving doors when they reopen as Carmen’s Bar in 2025. We hope they don’t change things up too much, for we loved the 20th-century ocean liner grandeur of the spaces, with marble-clad walls, ornate light fixtures and live piano music setting an auspicious tone.

Our highlight was the 7th Floor Terrace restaurant, where the team – aware of our dietary requirements – prepared a bespoke, plant-based dinner for us that included a garden salad with a raspberry dressing, creamy gnocchi with leeks, deep-fried tofu with wakame and zesty avocado tartar before an impressive selection of sweet treats, all made vegan-friendly, sent us into a state of sugar-coated ecstasy. While we didn’t see the regular menu, our meal was exemplary in a city where dietaries are sometimes overlooked, proving Hassler Roma can deliver on plant-based when prompted to do so. Service on the 7th Floor Terrace was equally attentive to our needs, not to mention charming beyond measure and expertly trained to recommend the perfect bottle of wine to go with each course. The atmosphere on the terrace, as the sun set over Rome’s domed basilicas, was second to none: many hotels in the Eternal City boast pretty vistas, but the view from the Hassler is the stuff of Fellini films and epic marriage proposals… a real-life postcard.

Just as we thought the restaurant trades on its romantic cachet only, a series of five consecutive, remixed ABBA songs sent smiles and gasps of joy across the terrace, most notably (and audibly) with the elderly gay couple that sat behind us. This, to us, was somewhat unexpected and random in the way you’ll only ever see at a hotel where not every single move is calculated down to the smallest detail – equally, we loved the spontaneous ‘Tanti Auguri’ singalong at midnight, for a guest who we later found out has been visiting for years. Only at breakfast did we find that the hotel didn’t quite manage the balancing act between old-school charm and modern needs, with a buffet-style spread that, though substantial, didn’t offer much in the way of diverse dietary requirements, and was rather uninspired in presentation. We think Hassler Roma could do much better here, with a stronger focus on menu items prepared à la minute, and a broader scope of dishes that reflect contemporary tastes: creamy coconut yoghurt, avocado sourdough toasts, chia seed puddings, perhaps an açai bowl or a shakshouka.

Its history and status is the property’s biggest muscle to flex, and to a new generation of design-savvy travellers looking for a community, or even just a ‘vibe’, this might not appeal in quite the same way it does to those who have stayed here for decades. On paper, there are places to stay in Rome that eclipse the hotel in certain regards, though recent renovations prove its desire to keep up with the times. An upcoming, two-level and 700 sqm/7,535 sqft underground spa (the largest in this part of the historical city centre), promises to elevate the wellness offering, and from what we hear, this will be very special indeed, reinforcing Hassler Roma’s current wellness product and confirming a commitment to offering 360-degree hospitality to each and every guest – including those to whom the hotel itself is a reason enough to visit the Italian capital.

Now under new ownership and management, Hassler Roma is entering its next phase at a time when luxury hotels are more differentiated than ever before. And while any fresh energy comes with the capacity of continued cultural impact (and something tells us the Wirth twins will want to leave their own mark on the legend they inherited), the hotel is in a rarefied league of properties whose very name being mentioned in conversation attests to one’s worldliness. We certainly had a memorable stay and would suggest that if you choose to bed down here on your next Roman holiday, you dial up the fabulousness, acquire an intimate knowledge of the cocktail menu, soak up each little detail alluding to Hassler Roma’s illustrious history and proximity to all things gilded and glamorous, and take the experience for what it is. There might be more fashionable families to join, but there are few more iconic.

www.hotelhasslerroma.com

Photography courtesy of Hassler Roma




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