Perhaps it was the welcome drink made from local herb rica rica, or the shallow stream running through the grounds of Awasi Atacama, where shepherds once sought shelter between structures made from wood and stone. Or perhaps it was the highly affectionate cat rubbing against our legs, which had made said grounds its home. But there was something about this discreet but deluxe desert bolthole that immediately won us over. And that something got a little better with each day.
Rustic street lights, Chilean flags swaying in the wind and tiny restaurants that spill onto dusty sidewalks – the charms of San Pedro de Atacama’s historical centre are manifold, but you’d never imagine yourself around the corner from them at 2007-opened Awasi Atacama. The hotel, hidden behind high trees and adobe walls, appears almost like a mirage in the desert when you first arrive, with its poolside cast-iron loungers, al fresco dining and staff who, rest assured, will remember your name and how you take your coffee without fail.
What’s apparent right from the start is that attention to detail carries great weight here. It’s something often claimed but rarely executed so consistently and in such tremendous style. No eye contact, no matter how brief, goes without a smile, and no request ever feels like an inconvenience to the team. Need your hiking boots cleaned after an excursion? Just leave them by your front door. Hoping to find your favourite bottle in the minibar? You must only say so. Late with laundry but desperate to have it done prior to your departure (yes, that was us) the following day? “We’ll take care of it”.
Stylistically, Awasi Atacama leans heavily into its Andean heritage, although there’s some welcome playfulness, too: an adobe pizza oven marries South American construction with Italian indulgence, while a boma-style bonfire took us right back to the African bush. That parts of the hotel are reminiscent of a safari camp is only fitting given Awasi’s commitment to conservation – like Africa’s leading safari companies, the brand regards itself not merely as a hospitality business, but rather, a model for sustainable tourism practise across the region.
It’s part of the reason why Awasi Atacama is a comparatively small operation, with just a dozen circular accommodations, each with a small, private vestibule, strung along a path towards the back of the property. But the ground plan isn’t the only thing that might remind you of a safari camp – so, too, will the intimate, compound-like feel, the planning area where guides unlock the wonders of the desert when discussing excursions with guests, and the lanterns whose warm light flickers in the grounds’ every corner at night.
Of the hotel’s twelve accommodations, two are 50 sqm/540 sqft rooms while the remaining ten are 65-70 sqm/700-750 sqft suites. Our private patio, JBL soundbar, yoga mat and XL bathroom (with gorgeous bath salts) sweetened our days, while heated floors and a humidifier set up at turn-down made us feel cosy and at home during the otherwise cold and dry desert nights. Original design details of our suite didn’t go unnoticed, either, from rope that ran along the skirting boards of our bedroom and the prettiest ceramic kettle by German electronics brand Thomas (no longer in production, we checked) to the embroidered pillowcases and cone-shaped ceiling made from natural materials. It’s layer upon layer of artisanal loveliness.
From a functionality point of view, our suite was equipped with a small walk-in wardrobe, a workstation, and a set-up that consistently gives guests the option to take things outside if they so desire: for a nap, a chaise longue awaits indoors, while sun worshippers will gravitate towards the loungers on the patio instead. Similarly, a tiled indoor shower room is inviting in the evenings and a large rainfall shower beneath the Atacama’s endless, blue skies divine during the day. While they’re no longer the most lavishly outfitted suites in town (that honour goes to another address, which was renovated just before we visited), rooms at Awasi Atacama have an explicitly homely quality we loved returning to after a day of exploring the desert. Just particularly accessible they are not, and we found this to be the only real oversight.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Sophisticate | CJC | GMT -4 |
| While you’re Out There |
| The formidable fine-dining at Awasi Atacama makes it easy to take all your meals on the hotel grounds, but should you find yourself wanting to explore a local restaurant or two during your stay, we enjoyed San Pedro’s sole vegan eatery, Estrella Negra, for a simple yet scrumptious lunch. Don’t expect anything too fancy here. This place is all about crispy empanadas, falafel bowls and superfood smoothies – or, as the menu refers to them, ‘smothiens’. You can’t not love it. |
The property’s culinary offering is headed up by Sebastián Prieto, and expectedly superb given its membership in the Relais & Châteaux portfolio, arguably the authority on all things gastronomic in the hotel industry. Bar a small and forgivable mistake or two (it happens in the best of hotels), Awasi Atacama went above and beyond in catering to our plant-based diet. Natural as it should be, we know not to rely on the often vacant ‘bespoke luxury’ promises of hospitality brands when it comes to doing just that. Too often have we walked away disappointed and feeling like we missed out, but this was not the case here, where the team endeavoured for each meal to be original, thought-out and actually worthy of the Relais & Châteaux stamp.
In the evenings, a romantic atmosphere – fireplaces, candles and Chet Baker oozing from loudspeakers – only made our mealtimes more memorable; as did nods to Atacameño culture in the decor and lovingly plated dishes. From ‘Solterito’ salad with Andean corn and fava beans to scrumptious potato pies, or mushroom ceviche to creamy cauliflower ‘chupe’, each course was expertly paired with wine or crafted cocktails selected by the hotel’s sommelier.
Desserts, too, were of the special kind, and we feasted on everything from freshly dusted Berliners to local ayrampo cactus fruit with roses and saffron rice to home-made vanilla Magnums, all made plant-based for us by the hotel’s vegetarian pastry chef who enjoys dabbling in vegan cuisine. A special treat was the seitan ‘bacon’ at breakfast, so sizzling and glorious, a Brazilian guest who walked past our table felt called upon to announce, “Your meat looks great” – we’ll take it as a win for the Amazon rainforest.
On the wellness front, Awasi Atacama treads lightly, with massages upon request provided in guests’ private accommodations. If you’re looking for a designated space to work out or unwind, there isn’t one on the property, though the surrounding desert, in its extraordinary expanse, offers a different kind of exercise or balm for the soul, whichever you’re after. The lodge’s very raison d’être is, of course, to help travellers explore the Atacama, and this it does with flying colours.
Guests can choose between half-day excursions with time for lunch (and sometimes a nap) back at the hotel, or full-day excursions that include meals on the road. The latter tend to be simpler for operational reasons, though, take it from us, when your guide sets up a private lunch for yourself in the middle of nowhere, with nothing on the horizon but volcanoes, turquoise lakes and the occasional vizcacha hopping about, you’re unlikely to miss the wine pairing. What’s more, excursions across both room categories are private and come with a designated guide and vehicle that stay with guests for the duration of their stay, allowing for greater flexibility than you’ll find at local competitors.
Our days out in the desert were shaped by discoveries and exploration led by our passionate guide, who slowly pulled the curtain on the Atacama’s natural, cultural and geological wonders for us: there were the circular stone corrals made by indigenous people, the unsuspicious-looking but astonishingly fragrant yareta plant, and the naturally occurring thermoplasticity of the Vallecito’s salt and rock walls that make crackling sounds in the midday sun. And though this may be a desert, water formed the backdrop of two of our favourite excursions – a dip in the Puritama hot springs, and a sunrise trip to the explosive El Tatio geysers (mind you, the highest and third largest geothermal field in the world).
One night, during a full moon, Awasi Atacama arranged for us to join a local group to drive out into the desert for a moon-gazing experience. Aside from la luna, Alpha Centauri and the Jewel Box star cluster also twinkled above our heads. Between the capacity for adventure in the wild, and the superb comforts of our suite, we again felt reminded of the African bush. Fans of safari lodges operated by local brands – not big corporates – will feel right at home at Awasi, where each little detail is intimate, exquisite, and connected to a broader idea.
Here, the idea is to expand horizons, promote conservation, and showcase culture. No one does this better than the guides opening up this extraordinary part of the world for you. As we departed, ours hugged us goodbye, and we vowed to return. Because that’s the kind of place this is.
www.awasi.com | www.relaischateaux.com
Photography by Daniela Mac Adden and courtesy of Awasi
