We were forewarned; there was no landline phone at this hidden-away jungle escape. No connection to the main lodge save for a flashlight and a walkie-talkie, and a series of stone pathways. But there was no need to contact the front desk, and certainly not for a wake-up call – not when the birdsong commenced with the first light of dawn, as it does each morning at Origins Lodge.
At that early hour, the choice was the outdoor stone shower that adjoins the en suite bathroom (complete with indoor rainforest shower) or the plunge pool on the terrace warmed by a wood-burning stove, the embers still smouldering, the water perfectly heated. We chose the latter, with a cup of freshly-brewed Costa Rican coffee that we sipped in the company of indigenous birds. More than 250 avian species make their home at Origins Lodge, which is named for the 111-acre property’s core belief in returning us to our origins and reconnecting us to nature’s rhythms.
It was the indigenous people of Costa Rica who built round houses in what is now Guayabo National Park. Our 93 sqm/1,000 sft circular bungalow replicated the pre-Columbian architectural style with a stone foundation and indigenous woods crowned by a conical roof covered in Costa Rican nightshade (aka paradise flower). Dozens of the pale purple flowers were within easy reach whenever we used the outdoor rainforest shower, where the organic toiletries (all in refillable bottles) are produced on site from the flowers of ylang-ylang trees on the property.
Vases of tropical flora bloomed in the bungalow as the sounds of the rainforest filtered in through the window screens. Guest amenities included local cacao and coffee, as well as various spirits with crystal barware, a coffee press, binoculars, and a personal safe. The heavenly king canopy bed was surrounded by white muslin netting, which protected us from insects as we slept. Overhead fans kept us cool and comfortable throughout the nights, which were much less humid than the days due to the lodge’s high elevation and its proximity to the twin volcanoes. Hot water was plentiful, thanks to the water tanks heated by solar panels for each of the six lodges. As for the wood-burning stoves, the firewood was reclaimed from fallen trees throughout the estate, and the lacquer-like floor was produced from more than 3,000 recycled bottles, all of which were reminders of the hotel’s ongoing commitment to conservation and sustainability.
Everywhere we wandered at Origins Lodge, we were reminded that we were in the clutches of a luxuriant, resplendent garden which was immaculately maintained by a staff of 50, nearly all of whom were locals from the nearby Upala community. With a staff to guest ratio of nearly three to one, Origins Lodge is overseen by General Manager Claudia who is as elegant as she is amiable, and the go-to person for any guest’s need, whether it was the in-house insect repellent, which was remarkably effective, or a mixology class with the head bartender at El Salto restaurant.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Adventurer | LIR | GMT -6 |
| While you’re Out There |
| Take the time – and allow plenty of it – to hike to the summit of La Catarata de Oro (aka the Golden Waterfall), where the air is cooled by the waters. And for those who want to cool off after the hike through the rainforest, the golden river water is reputedly therapeutic. |
One morning, we accompanied the French-born Chef Yann Berger to the organic vegetable garden where over 50 cultivated plant varieties were grown in rich organic soil in accordance with Kiwa certification. We were impressed to hear that Origins Lodge utilises all kitchen compost with the assistance of earthworms, who feed on organic waste, and in so doing, the hotel eschews all chemical pesticides. Consequently, more than 60% of the fruits and vegetables consumed at Origins Lodge are grown on site, including pineapples, tomatoes, lettuce, yucca, spinach, grapefruits, mangos, and oranges.
What we found equally appealing was the manner in which Chef Berger produced beautifully-plated, four-course meals that combined the exactitude of haute cuisine with the intense flavour of local ingredients. Seafood was harvested from shrimp and lobster ponds, as well as several on-site lagoons stocked with a variety of local fish such as tilapia, perch, and garfish. Though we didn’t see them, spectacled caimans were also lurking about – and perhaps awaiting those guests who wish to fish for their dinner, which was not us.
All the local staff members at Origins Lodge have undergone training by luxury professionals and we were continually impressed by their courtesy and kindness, as well as their dedication. Each evening when we returned to our bungalow, there was a fire in the wood-burning stove, which was heating the water for our late-night soak in the plunge pool. Turndown service was completed without a glimpse of the thoughtful individuals who cleaned our double-sink bathroom and prepared our canopy bed for sleep. Our kitchen area was always restocked with fruit and coffee, and the skylight closed for the night, as were the panoramic wooden blinds.
Everywhere we looked at Origins, we were struck by the attention to detail, whether it was a fresh bouquet of heliconia rostrata (aka hanging lobster claw) on the bar at Sky View Lounge or the edible flowers atop the cocktails and salads. The mug of cacao that drizzled with a mandala design in foam and chocolate or the ginger flower in our bathroom, these were emblematic of the personal touches that defined our stay.
During our open-air cranial sacral treatment at Laka-Tii Spa, we were surrounded by birdsong and the fragrance of lavender. One afternoon, as we were dining on mushroom risotto at El Salto, the sky opened, drenching the rainforest and filling the air with the intoxicating scent of petrichor. What we realised during our time at Origins Lodge was how our senses were reawakened, so that we were more fully alert to the taste of food, the fragrance in the air, the chorus of birdsong, the touch of a breeze on our skin.
Luxury has many meanings, different strokes for different folks. For some guests at Origins Lodge, luxury might be found in the French-influenced gastronomy, while others might cherish the access to wildlife or the dearth of noise beyond the sounds of nature. More than once during our time here, we felt as if we’d been returned to a kind of prelapsarian state where nature and humanity coexist in harmony, and for us, the luxury of Origins Lodge was in experiencing the moment with all five senses.
Photography courtesy of Origins Lodge
