Tierra Atacama, which first opened in 2008 and awakened from a $20 million face lift (sorry, beauty sleep) spearheaded by architects Rodrigo Searle and Matías González in April 2025, was arguably conceived not so much as a collection of rooms filled with beds and bathrobes, but rather, as a reservoir of local culture, and a tribute to desert living.
That Tierra Atacama is the type of hotel that seeks to weave a local narrative into each guest’s stay was obvious from the moment we set foot on its grounds, built on the site of a former cattle corral. The property is still surrounded by traditional adobe mud brick walls, but the floor decked in salt-like travertine marble sourced from a nearby quarry hints at something rather more elevated. As the staff put it: “The arrival area will soon serve as a 1,600-tree-strong seed bank for two indigenous species, including the South American chañar tree. We’re honouring its green-shimmering bark and orange seeds in design details across the property”. This, we thought, made for a rather immersive welcome.
Stepping inside, clean lines that diverge towards the glass-fronted, opposite side of the building drew our gaze in the direction of what towers on the horizon straight ahead: the 5,920 metres/19,420 feet-high Licancabur stratovolcano, with its near-perfect conical shape. The panorama forms the backdrop for the hotel’s sole restaurant and a bar where daily-changing cocktails and mocktails await (including Pisco sours infused with local herb rica rica, and made bespoke to suit our plant-based diet, using aquafaba rather than egg whites). Alongside these is an informal meeting point in the shape of a suspended fireplace not dissimilar to that at sister property Tierra Patagonia, or indeed that at Australia’s iconic Southern Ocean Lodge, another hotel within the Baillie Lodges portfolio, which Tierra joined in 2022.
But it was the excursion planning area that got us most excited. Here, a team of young guides from across Chile outlines the many adventures into the Atacama on a table featuring a map of the region alongside which guests will find a trail mix station and complimentary sunscreen. Trip highlights include stargazing beneath the world’s clearest skies, sunrise trips to the El Tatio geysers near the Bolivian border (mind you, the third largest geothermal fields on the planet), or a visit to the Salar de Atacama salt flats, dotted with flocks of flamingos dancing ballet on a volcanic stage whose scale is only amplified by its reflections in the Chaxa lagoon below.
Epic excursions aside, however, there’s plenty to keep you on the hotel grounds, too. A hint of campfire romanticism pervades interiors that showcase the work of over forty local artists and craftspeople, curated by interior designer Carolina Delpiano. Meanwhile, outdoor areas feel wide and open, allowing for generous space between different points of interest across the grounds. A series of architecturally striking, recessed lounge areas adjacent to the restaurant deserves a special mention for its stunning desert views that invite hours of post-excursion R&R. And speaking of relaxation, the Uma Spa is a special treat, with three therapy rooms (including one couples’ suite), where treatments pay tribute to traditions of Indigenous communities like the Likan Antai or Atacameños. If you’re looking for a hot contrast to the freezing desert nights, a state-of-the-art sauna, a steam room and San Pedro’s only heated indoor pool provide just that, while an outdoor pool and jacuzzi are perfect for hot summer days.
Not that we really needed to use the shared facilities, for we could’ve easily spent our entire time on property in our 70 sqm/753 sqft suite, one of four in this 28-room hotel. All accommodations are strung along a walkway landscaped by Teresa Moller and spotlit to soothing effect by lighting designer Barbara Greene. Inspired by one of the Atacama’s freshwater canyons, this garden-like part of the hotel is home to a striking chañar tree and a variety of shrubs and cacti that convey an oasis-like sensation in stark contrast with the barren landscapes outside of town. Much like a bee to a pata de guanaco flower in the desert, we gravitated towards our suite’s portal-like, hot orange door, behind which just a metre or two of stone patio tiles allowed us to brush off our dusty boots – the way the space was conceived quite literally invites guests to bring the outside in.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Adventurer | CJC | GMT-4 |
| While you’re Out There |
| While no stay at Tierra Atacama would be complete without an adventurous excursion or two, we also enjoyed exploring the sleepy town itself. Our favourite find was the Mercado Blanco, where local makers exhibit artisanal souvenirs. Stop by Hugo Artesanía Andina, a small stall at the back selling handmade silver jewellery with precious stones (we bought a lapis lazuli ring, for Chile is the only place in the world outside Afghanistan where the strikingly blue rock can be found in large quantities). |
Accommodations range from 35 sqm/377 sqft Oriente rooms to two three-bedroom apartments, and feature the contemporary, cosmic diorama of Chilean artist Maria Edwards alongside photography of the country’s traditional costumes. Surfaces and textures throughout pay tribute to the destination, from handwoven blankets to Patagonian lenga wood panelling or, as was the case with our suite, a metal sculpture by our outdoor shower that nods to the Atacama’s precious stones. Meanwhile, the hotel’s bespoke black lapacho wood canopy beds were retained during the renovation, and now sit amidst an array of design-forward details and resort-like amenities: wooden chess boards, heated floors, Cestita table lamps by Miguel Milà, a freestanding bathtub with views of Licancabur volcano.
With its cosy, cabin-like appeal, our suite nearly managed to keep us indoors if it hadn’t been for a sunrise-facing glass wall running alongside its entire eastern side, and the outdoor deck with a private pool just beyond. Though it was in the details that the ambition of Tierra Atacama to surprise and delight was most apparent: a duo of Nespresso machines and cafetières ensure each guests gets to enjoy their first coffee of the day just as would at home, while bathroom amenities are by a local, vegan-friendly brand and thoughtful inclusions like natural, Tierra-branded lip balm and insect repellent help make a stay in the desert environment more enjoyable — so do in-room humidifiers the staff set up at turn-down each night. Just with the amount of switches did the hotel go overboard, and we wished for a more intuitive solution the array of lights, curtains, fans, a fireplace and heated floors clearly requires.
Regardless, most guests would agree that the facilities warrant booking an extra night just to enjoy the many luxuries on offer. When it’s time to head out for a jaunt into the desert, guests staying in a suite or apartment are allocated a private guide and a rather lush silver Chevrolet Suburban, while those staying in entry-level category accommodations can sign up for a roster of shared excursions. The hotel’s guides are as wonderful and knowledgeable as you’d expect, though when trying to arrange experiences, we found that communication could’ve been more reassuring. At times, procedures seemed surprisingly inflexible and when one day, we were told there might not be a guide available to take us out on a morning excursion, we wondered how this could be so, given we stayed in a suite and were supposed to have a private guide throughout our stay (mind you, someone was available in the end).
For all things culinary, daily changing menus under the supervision of new head chef Andrés Donoso showcase local produce and Chilean tradition while also looking further afield. A strong presence of global flavours keeps things interesting and is perhaps representative of the brand’s ambition to cater to guests from evermore diverse backgrounds. From artichoke tartar with lemon dressing and local herb huacatay, to creamy pea soup, Thai tofu curries, and pears in red wine with vegan cream, Tierra Atacama catered to our plant-based diet in greater style than many a five-star address in London. Even our driver had been made aware of our dietaries, stocking our car with non-dairy chocolates as he picked us up from the airport – talk about a tailor-made welcome.
Following its costly renovation, Tierra Atacama is no doubt hoping that high-net-worth travellers to whom the destination was previously just a stop along an extended itinerary across South America, will want to stay on. The hotel makes it a breeze to come here, too, offering a quick and friendly transfer service at Santiago Airport between international and domestic flights. With its new, state-of-the-art facilities, this is perhaps the first place to stay in town that would be worth the journey even if it wasn’t for the breathtaking desert world on its doorstep. But beneath the shiny veneer is something money can’t buy: a commitment to responsible and culturally sensitive hospitality.
Photography by James Florio and courtesy of Tierra Hotels
