The Aman brand may be renowned for its luxurious minimalism and rich simplicity. But in “La Serenissima”, it’s taking the concept of serenity with a big pinch of Venetian sea salt. You see, in this city of canals, the Aman Venice has slipped into full Venetian drag… Baroque, Rococo and all the other schools of aesthetics that our design-loving hearts could ever desire. Think chandeliers the size of Fiat 500s and gilding that would make a Fabergé egg feel underdressed. And yet – miraculously, maddeningly even – it still exudes all that makes an Aman: a hushed elegance, a reverent simplicity and a near-mystical sense of place.
Let’s address the elephant in the room: Venice is, objectively, overtouristed. It’s an exuberant tangle of pigeons, overpriced gelato and visitors from all over the world; and, while it’s all part of the wonder, it can sometimes get a bit much.
This is precisely why the Aman Venice’s location is genius. Tucked discreetly in the San Polo district, it feels entirely removed from the bustle and an almost monastic calm pervades. Yet you’re never more than a gondola ride or a ten-minute meander through alleyways away from being in the thick of it all again. Gondolas or private boat charters can glide you straight up to and from the hotel’s private dock. If walking is more your thing, the winding route to the palazzo is a delight in itself – the kind of path you only find in Venice: half in shadows, entirely magical and occasionally scented with fresh pastries from a hidden bakery you’ll never find again.
That’s, of course, if you have the inclination to leave the hotel once you’ve found it. Because being a guest in residence at the Aman Venice feels a bit like stepping onto the set of a period drama – only instead of awkwardly fumbling through the role of a scandalous noble, we’re OutThere travellers blissfully tangled in the question of what’s truly dizzying: the dazzling Baroque ceilings or the impeccably crafted aperitivo spritz doing a gentle number on our senses. We’re told by luxury hotel aficionados who double as devoted Aman junkies that this delightful headspin is practically a rite of passage for anyone lucky enough to stay here.
Sure, it’s more showy than your usual understated Aman elegance, but as ever, it’s all delivered with that unmistakable flair for refined opulence. The building itself is enveloped in history. Originally commissioned in the 1500s by the Coccina family and later bought by the Papadopoli counts, the palazzo is a living museum and an ode to extravagance.
The experience of simply walking from our room to breakfast was a legitimate adventure. We’re not exaggerating – we glided through every space like curious children, each room and hallway its own chapter: a crimson parlour, a storied ballroom, a decadently dressed corridor, an Italian modernism drawing room… all with large ‘must peer out of’ windows offering views of the Grand Canal. Stucco ceilings rippled overhead like buttercream, vast oil-painted canvases peered down with an expression of faint amusement, as though they’d seen centuries of guests swoon in the same spot, Murano chandeliers dangled above us like glassy fruit from a crystal tree, Tiepolo frescoes sprawl across ceilings with such aplomb we sprained our necks gazing at them and huge gilded mirrors abounded – each one more extravagant than the last – perfect for checking if we were still looking appropriately dazzled, a few days into our stay.
Our Grand Canal Suite offered a rare moment of calm amid the swirling romance of Venice. The suite effortlessly balances the palazzo’s grandiosity with the discreet, unshowy elegance that Aman is so famously good at. High ceilings encase this generous space, while its large windows frame the Grand Canal like a living canvas, complete with gondolas drifting by as if on cue – because, of course, nothing in Venice happens by accident.
The furnishings whisper of Italian craftsmanship: plush designer sofas, an extravagant writing desk and practical yet beautiful lounge chairs perfectly placed to invite relaxation, while gazing out over the waterway. Modern amenities, including a Bang & Olufsen sound system, personal bar and curated lighting, ensured that every comfort was met without disrupting the suite’s timeless aesthetic. The separate bedroom continues the theme of understated luxury, with a large, comfortable bed that invited more than just our post-breakfast naps. The bathroom was equally modern and sleek, with polished marble and crisp lines quietly defying the Baroque extravagance just beyond the door.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Sophisticate | VCE | GMT +1 |
| While you’re Out There |
| The restaurant at Aman Venice is beautiful. Stunning, in fact. The food is seasonal, local and delicious – and the wine list is as expansive as it is expensive. But, and this is important, you are in Venice, and if you don’t venture out to some of the osterie and bàcari tucked around the city, you’re missing half the story. Yes, have a long, luxurious dinner at Aman one night. Relish the candlelight. Flirt with the sommelier. But then go and find a grumpy Venetian nonna who serves perfect bigoli in a smoky hole-in-the-wall and grunts when you order house wine. Because Venice, despite all her pageantry, hides her best meals in plain sight. Our favourite (and it must be booked, the concierge at Aman Venice will help) is Trattoria alla Madonna, a simple, quintessentially Venetian, and phenomenal, fresh seafood restaurant just steps from the hotel gates. |
It’s as if the Aman Venice had decided to give us a little breather from centuries of ornate ceilings and walls, reminding us that even in a palace, sometimes less really is more. But should you want to imbibe full-on frescoed drama, choose the Alcova Tiepolo suite. Here, Giovanni Battista Tiepolo’s lovingly restored 18th-century artwork sprawled across the ceiling, walls and doors like a collaboration between the gods and a particularly ambitious paintbrush, while antique furnishings and embellishments made it decidedly indulgent. It’s the kind of place where you half expect to overhear the palazzo’s whispered secrets of old, though mostly we were just left wondering how long we could linger here before reality, whatever that is, caught up.
We felt the same about the public spaces at Aman Venice, its lavish salons and drawing rooms. Despite their visual richness, these spaces never really overwhelmed – they invited stillness. A velvet armchair by the window became a stage for our late morning macchiatos; a piano in a gilded salon suggested the passing of time not by urgency, but by quiet rhythm. There was a slow, delicious tempo to life here. At Aman Venice, the public spaces didn’t rush us through. They instead held us in place and gently reminded us that beauty, when this thoughtfully composed, deserved our full attention.
Likewise, we enjoyed a long lunch in the sun-bathed, canal-side garden, one of the largest private gardens in the city. If, like us, you visit in spring, you’ll adore the tumbling wisteria in full bloom. And as a bonus, during shoulder season, Venice is no less charming but marginally quieter.
Another space worth escaping to was the hotel’s very own altana (rooftop terrace), a sky-high salute to Venetian living, with views that stretch from terracotta tiles to church spires and back again. Here, we sipped spritzes and watched the city burn golden in the evening light, just like a Canaletto painting.
And while they’d happily send drinks to whichever space we wanted, the bar at Aman Venice is something else. Hidden behind an unimposing door, the bar is moody and bold, with deep, marble counters and alchemic bartenders serving up spritzes and cocktails that are equally as inventive as they are rooted in Venetian storytelling.
The Aman Venice is a place of grandeur with grace. Drama without noise. Detail without fuss. Like Venice itself, Aman rewards the observant traveller – the one who pauses to look up, to listen, to let the city and the palazzo reveal themselves slowly. It invites you to linger. And most importantly, it reminds you, quite cheekily, that while the world outside may be loud and messy, here, excess can actually be healing. If, like us, your idea of heaven is gliding through silk-draped hallways in your slippers, pausing to admire a Tiepolo before breakfast or having your foot kneaded by someone who understands existential weariness, then this is your sanctuary.
On that last note – if you managed to leave the property, were overambitious with your sightseeing and ended up pounding the flagstones of Venice like you’re training for a marathon – then let us recommend Aman’s particularly brilliant little spa. Hidden away like a guilty pleasure on the third floor, it is hushed, beautifully appointed and not remotely crowded. There’s a signature foot massage therapy that is so clever, so outrageously effective, designed specifically for those who have walked Venice into submission. And it delivered. We left with feet that felt brand new and a bit floaty!
Photography courtesy of Aman Resorts
