While many of the island’s newer five-star contenders have gone for what we affectionately call “Cycladic clone chic” – all whitewash cuboids and infinity pools with identikit driftwood art – Mykonos Theoxenia dared to be different. Perhaps because it was here first. Yes, first. This was Mykonos’ original luxury hotel, built in the 1960s by Aris Konstantinidis, the godfather of modern Greek architecture. After a sensitive revamp that respected its glorious bones, it offers a refreshing alternative to the more ostentatious newcomers.
To arrive at Mykonos Theoxenia was to step into a curious time warp, one where Jackie O. might just have wafted past in a billowing kaftan at any moment, gin and tonic in hand. It sits high on the lip of Mykonos Old Town like a Greek stray cat surveying its kingdom, an enduringly stylish relic of mid-century hospitality and glamour that still manages to feel entirely in step with today’s design-hungry, experience-led jet-setter.
Location, as any discerning OutThere traveller knows, is everything. And here, Theoxenia is positively smug. It occupies an enviable plot, just behind the island’s famous windmills (you could practically reach out and touch them), and sits mere metres from the entrance to Chora, Mykonos’ beating whitewashed heart.
We were a five-minute sashay from the glitzy boutiques of Matogianni Street and a ten-minute stumble from some of the most iconic LGBTQ+ venues in the Aegean. But when we returned – bronzed, bejewelled and often more than a little tipsy – it was to a calm oasis of bougainvillaea, breezes and blissful quiet.
We found that there was something wildly liberating about not needing a car to get anywhere. We popped into town for a scoop of goat’s milk ice cream and returned for a dip in the sea-view pool. We swung out for sunset spritzes and retreated for a pre-dinner nap. We headed out for a ‘quiet’ night’s drink and stumbled back in the wee hours. It was all effortlessly convenient, yet we felt as if we were just far enough removed that we could pretend, just for a moment, that Mykonos was not quite so crowded as it really is.
Mykonos Theoxenia’s 1960s heritage is no gimmick. Its angular rocky facades, softened by Cycladic curves, mosaic stone pathways, low-slung furniture in sun-faded tones and original architectural features have been lovingly preserved and endure six decades on. It’s no wonder that it is part of the Design Hotels family.
Our accommodation was spacious in that nostalgic, practical way: large beds, clean lines and laid-back minimalism. There was nothing flashy – no mood lighting, no glitzy artwork – but that was exactly the point. Though there were moments we felt that everything could have been elevated just a little, but honestly, the real showstopper was what lay beyond our doors. A mere opening of our balcony doors brought a salty breeze and a sense of serenity that was impossible to manufacture. Our bathroom was bright and functional, stocked with Greek-made amenities that smelled of bergamot and sunshine. Some rooms come with outdoor jacuzzis or patios nestled into the landscape, ideal for sundowners or midnight philosophising. But all in all, it was the sense of privacy, despite the central location, that truly elevated the experience.
Let’s talk breakfast. Not in the grab-a-croissant-and-go sense, but in the let’s-make-this-last-all-morning sort of way. At Mykonos Theoxenia, breakfast was a languorous affair served on the shaded terrace overlooking the sea. The spread was appropriately Grecian: tangy yoghurt with honey and walnuts, flaky spanakopita, seasonal fruits, thick slabs of feta. Eggs arrived in copper pans, coffee or frappe in abundance. It was leisurely, elegant and best enjoyed in your shorts and flip-flops, with a sleeping cat for company.
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Culturalist | JMK | GMT +3 |
| While you’re Out There |
| For an OutThere night out, we recommend starting at the kitschy Lola Bar for a delicious cocktail or five. Its décor is a riot of colour and charm, with punchy pinks, velvet cushions and vintage knick-knacks that wink at you from every shelf. Order a frozen strawberry daiquiri crowned with a swirl of soft-serve and suddenly you’re the most stylish person on the island, whether you like it or not. It’s old-school Mykonos magic. Then, inevitably, your evening will wind its way to Jackie O’ Bar, the ‘urban’ offshoot of the infamous beach club. Even if you’ve seen photos, nothing prepares you for stepping inside – the terrace lights twinkle like a constellation over the harbour, cocktails are strong and the drag shows unmissable. |
Come dinner time, many guests ventured into town – and who could blame them? Mykonos’s culinary scene is a veritable feast of flavours, from candlelit tavernas to chic sushi lounges. But to skip dinner at the Apanemi restaurant at Theoxenia is to miss a hidden gem. Under the stewardship of its brilliant female chef, Antonia Konomi, the menu was thoughtful, inventive and theatrical… Antonia is known to make many tableside appearances.
Local seafood was given subtle twists: octopus carpaccio with citrus and coriander, grilled seabream on an olive oil emulsion and hot-stone cooked beef.
It’s a shame that on some evenings the restaurant lacked the buzz it deserved. But for those in the know, that quietude was golden. Dining here at least once is a must, especially on a windless night when the stars are showing off.
And as for wellness, we would be the first to admit that we were not usually ones for sweating in public – not unless there was a dance floor and an excellent DJ involved – but the infrared sauna at Mykonos Theoxenia had us converted. Beneath the property, in the hotel’s So Spa!, ‘infrared therapy’ stopped short of the punishing, breath-stealing heat of a traditional sauna and instead provided a far gentler, more forgiving warmth that seemed to seep straight into our bones. We stretched out, light humming softly around us, the Aegean breeze teasing in through a slit window, and at once felt both cocooned and completely unburdened. By the time we stumbled out, pink-cheeked and oddly euphoric, we realised that this was not just spa-time filler between cocktails and dinner – it was a ritual of its own, and it prepared us for our deep tissue massage with a handsome therapist.
By the end of our stay, we were in perfect agreement that there was something intrinsically romantic about staying in a hotel that helped define the destination. In the 60s and 70s, Mykonos Theoxenia was the playground of artists, writers and jet-setters; the island’s first flirtation with true glamour. That heritage is not shouted about today as much, but it was always in the air… in the deliberate design, the knowing hospitality, the gentle pace.
Modern Mykonos has evolved dramatically, of course. The island is now a symphony of superyachts, beach clubs and big-name brands. And yet Theoxenia remains serenely above the fray, more intimate, more storied. It walks the line between boutique and resort beautifully. We never felt anonymous here. By the second morning, the staff knew our names, our preferred table and how we took our coffee, not to mention a knowing smile and a perfectly timed comment about last night’s debauchery at Jackie O’s.
So, who checks in here? Not the pose-for-Instagram-by-the-pool types, though they would be welcome. Mykonos Theoxenia’s guests seemed more refined, more seasoned, curious and well-travelled. They’re the sort who like a story with their stay. There was a fair share of LGBTQ+ travellers, many of whom returned year after year, drawn by the warm welcome, the lack of pretence and its proximity to legendary Mykonos Old Town.
We would say that it would not dazzle those looking for more upscale opulence, silver service or even a party vibe on site. But for those who crave a bit of depth, more than a touch of design and a whole lot of location, it is a confidently perfect choice. It was a place where the spirit of old Mykonos still lingered, dressed in linen, sipping something cold and watching the world go by.
Mykonos Theoxenia has always been for the traveller who likes their luxury with a little legacy and their nights lively but their mornings luminous. We suspect it always will be.
Photography courtesy of Mykonos Theoxenia
