In Las Vegas, the high-stakes city that deals in spectacle as currency, the super-glossy The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas plays its hand with a wink. It’s a contemporary playground for the beautifully restless and a place that revels in what it mischievously dubs in its irreverent brand promise, “The right kind of wrong”. Here, pretty much everything is a statement: sprawling, glittering, party-ready stages set for martinis at midnight and stories best left untold by brunch. Even the spa refuses to take itself too seriously. Add to this a roll call of restaurants, including those in its food hall, said to have set the trend in Vegas, that keep the flashbulbs popping and the reservation lists tight. On the Strip — that endlessly strutting catwalk in the desert — this is the address that lends a shot of fashionista credibility, equal parts high camp and high design.
Las Vegas deals unapologetically in excess, and even in a city packed full of resorts that does its best to impress, it’s hard to top the decadent pleasure of stretching out on the wraparound balcony of our suite at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, for a private audience with the fountains of Bellagio. Like clockwork, again and again, and yet we never tired of watching the water perform its sultry choreography against a glittering backdrop of Strip illuminations, skyline silhouettes and the dusty outline of Nevada’s desert mountains. Below, the cacophonous bustle of what we fondly dub “Adult Disneyland” hums and whoops into the night, while up above, martini in hand, we enjoyed the best seat in the house.
And yet, that balcony was merely the overture. The Cosmopolitan is somewhat of a self-contained universe (resort, retail mecca, casino, spa, gallery), a place that keeps on giving because, frankly, that’s how this MGM-owned and managed property rolls. Even in a town known for generously proportioned suites, our aptly named Wraparound Terrace Suite with Fountain View felt gloriously indulgent. At a staggering 111 sqm (1,200 sqft), it delivered space in abundance, and then casually added a third more in outdoor terrace, as if to say, why the f*** not?
Our suite, like all the others, was modern and flashy – perhaps a little too much on the ‘bling’ side for us – but impressive nevertheless. It was one of 17 room categories among roughly 3,000 keys, each calibrated to suit every appetite and budget. Other Vegas suites can be a little beige and ‘American standard’ in decor. Here at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, the suites are big on personality, character and ironically, a sense of place; ironic because Las Vegas is a city where that sense can be anything you want it to be, and entirely manufactured.
Big, colourful contemporary art pieces featured throughout, complemented by gold-rimmed mirrors and shiny marble occasional tables. There was also a dining area (that we were never going to use, as the hotel offers up some world-class food and beverage options) and two luxurious bathrooms.
Our suite showed some signs of age, to be expected considering the high level of traffic that passes through here. But where else in the world will your hotel room have a sleek wet bar and a sub-zero wine chiller?
The most desired suites are the three-storey ‘Bungalow’ ones (yes, we know that’s technically a contradiction, but anything goes here), with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking The Cosmopolitan’s Marquee Dayclub and a private, heated plunge pool in case you’re hosting an afterparty.
But the top accommodation options in the house (at least the ones that are published and available to ‘mere mortals’ – we’re told that the casino’s high rollers have access to a whole other world of premium accommodation) are in the Chelsea Suite category, set up in two or three-bedroom configurations. They start at around 250 sqm (2,600 sqft) of prime party space.
Sun worshippers will love the hotel’s two pool districts. But if, like us, you want to escape the constantly up-for-it party crowd, you’ll find zen down at the Sahra Spa at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas. Here, soft, ambient lighting bounced off warm stone walls, exotic textures begged to be touched and the faint scent of botanicals and CBD oils teased our senses. It’s serene, yes, but with a wink: Playful touches reminded us that wellness here didn’t take itself too seriously.
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| The Hedonist | LAS | GMT -8 |
| While you’re Out There |
| When you’re in Vegas, you’ve got to catch one of its highly-produced shows. There are, of course, some amazing residencies on the strip, but you don’t have to go too far as the Cosmopolitan puts on its own productions as well, boasting a glittering entertainment programme. From time to time, they shine a spotlight on smaller acts too – up-and-coming stand-up comics cutting their teeth – and more intimate hot-ticket gigs that feel thrillingly under the radar. |
Our CBD Hammam session, in particular, was a revelation; a wet, steamy ritual of detoxifying heat, gentle exfoliation, and lots of gratuitous bathing. CBD-infused soaps soothed our skin and souls. It’s the kind of treatment we didn’t know we needed, but after, we practically glowed and felt revitalised, if not slightly giddy and undeniably spoiled. And it’s a reminder that even amid the Cosmopolitan’s exuberant glamour, there’s room for quiet indulgence and restoration.
We dined at both LPM Restaurant and Zuma during our trip, part of the hotel’s nearly 30 dining options. But you can also name-drop some other of the world’s most lauded eateries as well, all within the hotel complex: Beauty and Essex, China Poblano, Momofuku and STK… they’re all here. And those in the know will tell you that it was The Cosmopolitan’s Block 16 that first kicked off Las Vegas’ food hall craze, transforming casual dining into full-blown theatre. We visited on one of its legendary Block Party days, and the place erupted into a frenzy that felt part culinary circus, part music festival. DJs spun live beats while frozen cocktails floated past on trays, chefs flung bites we didn’t even know we needed, and cheeky merch tempted us into souvenir mischief.
The undeniable star of the show was Naughty Patty’s, the burger bad girl of the Strip, which served fantastic smash burgers, dirty fries and frozen custard Concretes. Hattie B’s Hot Chicken brought the Nashville heat; District: Donuts. Sliders. Brew. delivered sugar rushes and a hefty dose of attitude, and Tekka Bar handed us impeccable hand rolls with flair. Meanwhile, Bāng Bar by Momofuku and Lardo piled on unapologetic flavours, and Ghost Donkey sashayed through with frozen cocktails and mezcal mischief, turning the crowd into willing accomplices in the chaos. This was more than a food festival – it was a full-on celebration of creativity, community and culinary bravado, all while also benefiting charity, with proceeds going towards the MGM Resorts Foundation.
Then, for a digestif — and believe us, after that culinary marathon, we needed a serious one — we made our way to the hotel’s infamous Chandelier Bar, with its three storeys of sparkling crystal, plush nooks and cascading cocktails. The real entertainment, of course, is people-watching: the glamorous, the gregarious and the utterly bewildered all orbiting the bar like planets in a glittering galaxy.
More than a decade after its opening, The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas still struts down the Strip with undeniable fashionista flair. It continues to feel modern, daring, and just a little mischievous and very Las Vegas. Yes, it’s large, bustling, and far from a quiet oasis. VIP serenity is generally compromised amid the ebb and flow of guests who treat the property as both runway and playground. Staff, understandably stretched thin, sometimes lean more toward processing a constant parade of visitors than delivering the polished service one might hope for in a property of this calibre.
Yet, for all its glitz and chaos, the Cosmopolitan remains unapologetically itself, fully realising the Vegas experience that any first-timer would crave – one that is undeniably fun. For those prepared to dive into the chaos, cocktails and all, it delivers a thoroughly satisfying all-in-one.
Photography courtesy of the Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas
