Those who’ve been watching closely will know that Euskadi (better known as the Basque Country) has never been short on queer spirit. And now, the region has yet another hotel to show for it in Axel Bilbao, a flirtatious riverside haunt in its cultural capital. Arriving after the success of its San Sebastian counterpart, this Axel newcomer plants the Basque Country firmly on the queer map – good news for OutThere travellers, not so good news for anyone who hoped to gatekeep this gorgeous slice of northern Spain for a little longer.
It was only a matter of time before Axel found its way to the Basque Country (which, by the way, now holds the distinction of being the first certified Queer Destinations Committed region in Europe, as revealed at our sophomore LGBT+ Travel Symposium). Since its Barcelona debut in 2003, the Spanish hotel brand has been steadily expanding its constellation of urban stays across the continent’s most iconic queer destinations, which we needn’t spell out (with a detour to Havana, Cuba), growing brighter and gayer with every new outpost. Bilbao, with its artistic energy and historic struggle for self-determination in the face of oppression, comes as a natural next chapter for the chain of properties that prides itself on putting the queer community front and centre.
That said, the hotel is positively ‘heterofriendly’ and welcoming to all. And in case you’re in doubt, Axel drives the message home as they do best: with plenty of campy, tongue-in-cheek signage, like the one on our suite floor that declared, ‘Diversity is sexy’ and ‘This place is Good Vibes Only. If you are not respectful, you may be expelled from paradise’. We passed the vibe check, of course, and got to enjoy paradise in full – forbidden fruits included.
One such delicious fruit was the hotel’s Skybar, its crowning glory. Overlooking the estuary and rooftops of Bilbao’s once-industrial district turned bohemian playground, all framed by green rolling hills that encircle the city as if it were the Garden of Eden, this open-air rooftop bar and pool area is where guests (the Adams and Steves in this garden) gather to model their finest swimwear and sip local txakolí wine until sunset. With this side of Spain not exactly being known for endless sunshine, the bar also comes fitted with a retractable glass cover, transforming the space into a lively solarium whenever the skies take a turn. The Skybar is the perfect pre-party setting before heading out to indulge in Bilbao’s lovably kitsch nightlife scene, which sits just across the river in Casco Viejo (the city’s medieval Old Town).
| Perfect for | Fly into | Right on time |
| The Hedonist | BIO | GMT +2 |
| While you’re Out There |
| Roll up your sleeves for a cooking class and guided wine-tasting workshop at Gastronomía Bilbao, just a 20-minute walk from Axel or a short tram ride along the river. Under the watchful eye of local chefs, you’ll learn the techniques and traditions behind Basque cuisine, while expert sommeliers introduce you to one of the most extensive wine lists in Biscay. With a small shop stacked with artisanal oils, preserves, and wines, there’s every chance you’ll leave with a little edible souvenir of your own. |
After an evening of dancing or a day spent sightseeing, recovery comes in the form of Axel’s Wellnessclub on the ground floor of the hotel. Compact but well-equipped, this sleek urban spa covers all bases: sauna, steam room, cold plunge buckets, jacuzzi, 24-hour gym, and a solid lineup of treatments, from deep-tissue massages to beautifying facials. If you lock eyes with someone fixing themselves a slice of Spanish tortilla while you’re chest deep in the hot tub, do not be alarmed. The not-so-discreet semi-reflective windows that separate the Wellnessclub from the restaurant area are completely intentional. This lightly risqué undercurrent runs throughout the hotel, from the glass-partitioned showers in the rooms to the subtle arrival gifts that nod to pleasure and play.
Tying this all together is an aesthetic that feels very Axel but very Bilbao, too: a fusion of industrial muscle and fabulousness (sort of like the cross-dressing hunks that prowl the local gay bars), inspired in part by Frank Gehry’s nearby architectural marvel, the must-visit Guggenheim Museum. Expect black metal lines offset by deep teal tones and splashes of burnt orange throughout the hotel’s 108 rooms, of which we’d recommend opting for one of the larger suites that come with a lounge space, bathtub, and views of the estuary – the views from some of the interior suites can be a little underwhelming.
Breakfast at Axel Bilbao is a buffet-style affair, with platters of Iberian cold cuts, pastries, fresh fruits, and coffee to order, all the sustenance and caffeine you need before venturing into the food-obsessed city. We spent our afternoons wandering Casco Viejo, eating our bodyweight in pintxos and Basque cheesecake. And we’d do it again in a heartbeat.
Photography courtesy of Axel Hotels
